NRI, Chawla opened Dolsun Jewels in Mumbai to cash in on the growing craze for diamonds in India

 

New Delhi, Aug 22, 2004
IANS

Once the adornment of only the rich, diamonds have caught the fancy of the average Indian, making the domestic market lucrative for jewellery manufacturers who are cashing in on this fad.

"Over the last couple of years we have been noticing that 25 percent of our customers who never bought diamonds are doing so. They start with buying diamond studded jewellery worth Rs.10,000 ($215) to Rs.15,000 ($323) and then go up," said Upkaran Singh Chawla of Mumbai-based Dolsun Jewels.

A non-resident Indian, Chawla shifted operations here to cash in on the growing craze for diamonds in India. He now exports to the US and Canada, where his father had started a jewellery business 20 years ago.

"We specialise in personalised diamond jewellery for which there is a good demand here. In fact, the domestic market is growing faster than the export market," Chawla told IANS.

"The phobia about diamonds being affordable by only the elite class is gone," said Ajay Kapoor of the leading New Kapoor Jewellers. "In the last few years we have been recording over 60 percent growth in sale of diamond jewellery."

The middle class choice varies from Rs.5,000 ($108) piece jewellery for everyday wear to Rs.100,000 ($2,155) sets and above.

India is a major diamond cutting and polishing hub, accounting for nine out of ten stones sold in the world market. With a 17 percent share in the export basket, India exports around $8 billion worth of diamonds and jewellery.

The high-profile celebrity promotion of Diamond Trading Company, the gems marketing arm of De Beers, have made Nakshatra, Asmi and premium range of solitaires Arisia household names.

The fact that some of these are very affordable ranges of designer jewellery is luring Indian housewives and working women to buy diamonds for normal wear

The quality certification from Diamond Trading Company (DTC) and International Gemmological Institute (IGI) is an added incentive.

To help people learn more about the four Cs - carat, clarity, cut and colour, the IGI is running courses in India that are not only being attended by youngsters but also many young jewellers.

Some of the jewellers provide their own certification of quality, but increasingly the demand is for globally recognised certification where high worth diamonds are concerned.

"With the trend towards showing off personal affluence, everyone is getting into the grove of buying diamonds - whether lower value studded jewellery in the north or high worth solitaire in the western region," said Chawla.

The shift towards precious stones can be seen even in traditional jewellery like kundan, minakari and mina-kundan, which have brilliant enamelled designs on the reverse.

"There is less demand for minakari and more for kundan with uncut diamonds replacing white crystals in polki cutting," said Shubhang Mittal of Jaipur based Shree Jee Jewellers, who export considerable amount of traditional jewellery to the US.

"The domestic demand is more than exports though people here want new designs and better quality stones as there is more awareness now," said Mittal.

"The trend is for studded jewellery with the younger generation seeking precious stones even in traditional settings," said Devang Jhaveri of Mumbai-based Keshavlal Dalpatbhai Zaveri & Co.

Despite the price of gold escalating in the last two years, India continues to be a major importer and consumer of the precious metal.

Trade experts said the demand for custom designed gold and diamond jewellery has seen the emergence of several training institutes and talented entrepreneurs like Nidhi Chawla who markets her jewellery under Glitz brand.

"In Delhi the preference is for jewellery with lots of stones while in Mumbai high-value stones and more delicate work is in demand," said Chawla who is happy with the success witnessed by her wedding jewellery range.

Designer jewellery has even caught the fancy of tourists and non-resident Indians who shop here for diamond jewellery, said trade leaders.

"Such is the demand that in less than two years of starting operations we have had to double our shop area to meet customer demand," said Poonam Kashyap, designer with Diamond Hut, one of the new popular ventures.